1. Your workspace should be 70 - 78°F, temperature controlled and free from dust & debris

2. Using a clean plastic container marked with measurements, measure the correct amount of Part A into the cup. Replace the cap. *It should appear transparent/clear with a smooth consistency. (UVPoxy Part A Resin will have a slight ultraviolet tint) If the Part A Resin is milky, or has crystallized STOP, do not add Part B read this

3. Add the correct amount of Part B into the measuring/mixing cup. Replace the cap.

4. Using a wooden craft stick, stir the mixture for 3-4 minutes until COMPLETELY and thoroughly combined.

5. Pour resin mixture onto the surface to be coated ASAP or portion the epoxy resin into cups for coloring.

6. Use a utensil or notched spreader to spread the resin evenly over the entire surface, including edges.

7. Do not pour UV Poxy deeper than ¼ inch. (1/8 inch layer is recommended)

8. Use a heat gun or torch to remove air bubbles with big sweeping motion. Hold it 4-6 inches above the resin and move continuously. Wait 15 minutes and repeat if necessary.

9. Let the resin cure undisturbed. It will be dry to the touch in 8-12 hrs. Fully cured in 24-48 hrs.

 

PRO TIPS:

• Always wear nitrile gloves.

• Protect all surfaces with plastic sheeting (NOT paper or cloth)

• Use plastic containers/cups (not glass, metal or paper)

Prep:

• Always set up everything you will need and use before mixing the epoxy. Once Part A & B are combined, the thermosetting process begins, and you only have a short amount of time to work with the epoxy resin before it gels.

Measuring:

• Use a container with measurements printed on it (i.e. plastic measuring cup or painters cup)

• Measure equals parts into the measuring cup and begin stirring immediately

• Measure a minimum of 100 ml or 1 oz of each part

• Measure by volume, not by weight. Part A is heavier than Part B

Mixing:

• Use a craft stick to combine Part A & B.

• Keep the bottom of the stick on the bottom of the mixing container when stirring, this will reduce excess air bubbles.

• Scrape the entire sides of your mixing cup many times during the process.

Degassing

• Use a heat gun on low setting.

• Stay about 4 - 6 inches above the surface

• Move continuously Do not hold over one spot

• Use sweeping motions.

• Check for bubbles and repeat this step after 15 -20 minutes

Application:

For best results, and to achieve a flawless glass-like finish, UV Poxy should be applied in two coats. (possibly more)

The first is referred to as the seal coat and the second is the flood coat.

The seal coat is a thin layer of epoxy that seals the surface (1/16 inch deep or less). It can be applied with a chip brush, spreader or your gloved hands. Applying a seal coat has many benefits, here are a few:

• Creates a smooth surface for applying flood coat

• Traps any debris or dust left on the surface (not properly cleaned)

• Reduce/prevent air bubbles in the following flood coat. (Oxygen off-gasses from most all materials) 

• Prevents color from bleeding into the surface.

• Seals tiny holes or leaks in molds or forms (which prevents a disaster if pouring a casting epoxy for the flood coat)

• Can be used as adhesive to secure any objects to be embedded

This seal coat is followed by the flood coat, which will flow, and self-level, rubber or plastic tools can be used to spread UV Poxy. Flood coats should be applied in self-leveling 1/8 inch layers and can be built up to any desired depth one layer at a time. (do not spread too thin)

Re-coat Time:

When applying an additional coat, you should wait until the first coat is dry-to-the-touch. Slightly tacky may be okay, but if you can feel any heat coming from the epoxy, it is not ready! Re-coating can usually be done in 8 -12 hours. If re-coated within this time period, no sanding is necessary between layers. (You can wait up to 36 hrs. but clean the surface with 91- 99% isopropyl or denatured alcohol before adding the next coat)

Embedding Pictures:

Objects on paper, such as pictures, maps etc., can be embedded in UV Poxy during the pours. All paper objects should be sealed before being covered with epoxy resin. Use a thin coat of epoxy, professional artist brush-on or spray sealer to cover all sides. This this may be done with a brush. Two coats of sealer are advised. All surfaces must be COMPLETELY dry before pouring the resin. Also, I suggest you secure all objects to the surface before applying the resin flood coat, otherwise they will float or move from the desired location while the resin cures. All glue must be completely dry before applying epoxy resin. (if not, it will turn the resin milky white)

Embedding Solid Objects:

All objects and materials should be completely sealed with a coat of UV Poxy. This will prevent air bubbles from occurring in subsequent flood coats. Objects can be secured in place with glue or epoxy after sealing but before the flood coat.

Note:

If 48 hours elapsed from time of application/coating, then additional preparation could be required. If so, lightly sand entire surface with 180-220 grit sandpaper to remove the gloss finish and a light powdery residue appears. This provides an optimal surface for adhesion. Remove all sanding dust and wipe down entire surface with 91% isopropyl or denatured alcohol. At this point the epoxy has reached about 90% of its cured hardness. UV Poxy will complete curing over the following 2-3 days. If ambient temperature drops below 65 degrees, cure times can double.

**all epoxy resin pours are greatly affected by temperature and moisture. (ideal temperature is a steady 72°- 74°F and under 50% humidity)

**This information is provided to help you get the best results possible. I do not guarantee your success. Individual user results may vary. 

**If you are new to epoxy resin, PRACTICE! Start small and keep a journal of every thing you do and the results. PRACTICE MORE!

 

I have published a lot of helpful information and tips:

https://epoxy.us/blogs/ecopoxy-made-easy

https://theresinartist.blogspot.com/

https://halfbakedartblog.blogspot.com/